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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:04 am 
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I have Created this as a seperate area from the Tech Questions so that people can talk Mechanics, Customising and Servicing.

I have 1 and only 1 request. PLEASE no "Scottoiler V My chain lube" threads :) This subject has been long since done to death in soooo many places.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 6:39 pm 
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And what WRONG with Scottoiler thats what I want to know, I would use it on the pan and the wifes Viagro but they don't have a chain,so I can't, but she does have one on her gsx600f and it really makes the chain last,and think of all the fun you can have when you sit in the garage with a stiff brush and the parafin cleaning all the grease and road muck off and then putting it all back on again, I can assure you that she has endless fun and while she is enjoying herself I can watch videos of motorcycle racing and drink BEER,so leave scottoilers alone THEY are GREAT!!

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 Post subject: Woah Nelly
PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2007 8:19 pm 
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Nobody is dis'ing Scottoilers, Alex is merely saying the subject has ran its course and it has no more life in it.










Anyway they are rubbish :wink: .

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:29 am 
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Without advocating any method.........

What's stopping you putting a scottoiler on your Pan ? You to could have the plesure of watching the muck and gunk accumulate :)

I have no reason to dislike Scottoilers or any other method of lubricating a Motorcycle final drive mechanism. I also run a shaft drive bike now, but have for many years lubed my chain with a variety of (sometimes more unusual*) methods.

They all have their pro's and cons.

* The VF 400F I owned had a self lubricating chain. The Clutch pushrod oil seal went so the Engine oil leaked out onto the chain (well sort of).

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:26 pm 
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Location: on the patio, with a cold beer!!
[quote="Widdow_son"]would use it on the pan and the wifes Viagro quote]

Now, I think my view on Scottoilers are well known, but the wife on a VIAGRO, well I never.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:54 pm 
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You never know where these things are going to lead do you.

The Scottoiler debate jusrt rang a chord with me and in a blinding moment of inspriation I decided what to do...................

My K1100 doesn't need one.................................

However...........my 14" petrol mower with chain driven cutter might be the perfect location for a spare Scottoiler.

Anybody got one?

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 9:58 pm 
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Location: Newbury Park, Ilford.
Suzuki Bandit SX rear brake caliper pins, any good ideas on getting the buggers out?

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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2007 10:46 pm 
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I'm guessing the caliper can/has been removed from the bike.

I don't know the bandit pins myself, but honda Pins are good at siezing in.

With all siezed bolts and pins the thing is to create a gap between the "nut" and the "Bolt"

If the pin is threaded things get harder, if not then the method is the same but you stand a much better chance.

I'm guessing the pads are dead - if not i'd replace them anyway.....
You may as well replace the pins as well. If they aint dead now they will be by the time you get em out.....

Give the pin a good soak in WD40 or similar.- the longer the better - overnight is not unreasonable. Add some more every few hours.

You should be able to get some Mole Grips onto the Pin (Between the pads) If your grips are old and knackered go get a new pair !!!

See if you can start to rotate the pin. Sea Saw action - gently and slowly.

If it still won't move it's time to add some heat. A Blow Torch is great - the smaller the better. The idea is to heat the area around the pin and not the pin itself. have another go at rotating the pin. If it still won't go try heat again then get some ice and melt it on the pin and repeat a few times.

If it still won't go there is only one other way. At least brake pins are soft and easy to drill !

Start with a small ( 2 mm ) drill. Use a center punch and then use the drill to centre the hole. Drill down 5 - 6 mm. It's VERY Important that you get the hole in the centre of the pin. You will probably find that the pin will free up at this point. If not try the same from the other end.
If the siezed end is threaded it's probably the threads that are siezed. You may well need to use a larger drill after the 2 mm drill - make sure it's at least 20% smaller then the inside of the threads. If you damage the threads it's new caliper time.

As you are working on the Brakes i'll add in:

If it don't look right it's probably not.
If it looks worn REPLACE it.
If it's dirty - clean it.
If you are unsure get expert advice.
Take great care that you don't damage the rubber piston seals - If you do REPLACE them.

Brake seals and pins are not usually costly - the caliper is probably going to cost £100s.

GL and let us know how you get on.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:49 am 
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If you have an arc welder there is one approach to freeing stuck bolts etc. that I have found very effective. Ensure bolt is well soaked in oil, WD40 or whatever. Clip the welder earth on the holding part (in my case normally the bike). Break off the flux from a welding rod tip so that the bare metal is exposed. Then touch the rod onto the bolt but do not draw it back to create an arc. You want a short circuit so that a massive current flows through the bolt and the welder 'hums'. Rip the rod off after a couple of seconds (turn welder off immediately if this is not possible). Repeat if necessary.

I have used this as a measure of the last resort, and it has always worked for me.

Regards
Chris J.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 1:17 pm 
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Hi Bill
The underslung caliper on the Bandit (and nearly all other Suzuki's that use them) are absolutely notorious for seizing. The best way is to remove the caliper from the bike and hose then split the caliper. Once split you can get a decent grip on the offending pin and with localised heat on the caliper, turn the pin out using molegrips. Once out, clean up the locating holes in the caliper and then reassemble using rubber grease on caliper joints and new pins with copperslip taking care not to get any on the pads themselves. It is a nightmare job to do and if you ride all year round, this model of caliper needs cleaning annually without fail.

Good luck
Chris

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 2:32 pm 
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If you can't face all of the above yourself, go to Chadwell Motorcycles in Grays. They managed to remove mine from my old Bandit, where others had failed.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:14 pm 
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Thanks all, I've got new pins and pads ready, tuesday is the big day for the next attempt, fingers crossed.

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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2007 10:54 am 
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Chris Reed wrote:
The best way is to remove the caliper from the bike and hose then split the caliper


If you split the Caliper you will need to replace the Rubber seals / O Rings between the 2 bits of caliper. I'd also suggest that you re assemble them with a torque wrench to ensure that the bolts are the same tighness.

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:08 pm 
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Hi All, Well after much banging twisting and swearing I gave up and this morning took it to the bike shop at the bottom of my road "Bacon's" they drilled them out in no time. I shall make sure that I copper grease them every few months, thanks again for all the advice.

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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:13 pm 
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Glad you got it sorted Bill
Regards
Chris

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